Journal #56 - Zimbabwe
Waka from Zimbabwe!
Our travels to Zimbabwe involved a long drive through Botswana abutting the Chobe National Park and when we entered Zimbabwe, the road went directly along the Zambezi National Park. This meant that for the hours we spent in the car transferring into this new nation, we basically got an extra day of safari driving. We passed numerous elephants, munching on the brush beside the road. Our driver pointed out warthogs drinking in the leftover spillage of the water pipes (previously ripped up by elephants). The closer we got to our destination the more baboon families we passed. At one point, we had to stop the vehicle to allow giraffes to cross the road. It gave the whole experience a magical touch and showed how closely interconnected the cities here are to their wild neighbors.
The activity we were most looking forward to during our visit here, was seeing Victoria Falls – also known as Mozi-au-Tunya in Lozi, which means “The Smoke That Thunders”. It is one of the largest waterfalls in the world and we knew it deserved a visit. Since the river that feeds the falls is the national border, the park to see the falls is accessible from two different nations. We chose to visit from Zimbabwe and were thrilled with what we saw.
The falls have different drop points identified with names: The Devil’s Cataract, Main Falls, Horseshoe Falls, etc. You can walk along a path opposite the falls and take in the views of each of the different gorges. We first visited early in the morning and our sights were masked with the swirling mist that is so characteristic of the falls at their peak. If we looked over the edge, all we could see were different rainbows because the air was nothing but water vapor in every direction.
The haze obscured our view at first. We stood back on the path and looked out between the trees we were met with a wall of white. We could hear them though. That echoing rumble was apparent from our first steps into the national park. They earned their name as the thundering smoke without question. Only as we got closer did the falls reveal themselves to us. In waves, the sun's rays would penetrate the fog and reveal the billowing flow. They were breathtaking and shocking. Many waterfalls we have visited can be a little lackluster; however, the sheer power and brute force of Victoria Falls was humbling and we stared back in amazement.
We came early to see it all before too many tourists crowded the park – and we were successful. But after having taken so many pictures and walking the length of the path, we decided to put the cameras away and do the whole thing again. So we put our gear under our rain jackets (a necessary accessory with so much lingering spray from the falls) and took a slow and casual stroll all along the way. This time we encountered many more people and marveled at the beauty of the falls with them. We also had to witness those people's quirks.
The national park is filled with trees and plant life, it also plays home to several creatures as well - some of which are monkeys, specifically baboons. At an outlook, a baboon family had decided to drape themselves across the walkway. The grouping consisted of maybe six adults and at least one baby clinging to its mom. Despite signs warning you away, some tourists decided to get in the animals’ faces and take photos like there was a glass barrier between them as there would be at a zoo. Other visitors decided that the baboons were in their way. We watched one set of adults try to walk on the sidewalk (instead of around the baboons like others had). The first person made it through without any reaction from the primates, which built confidence in their friend. As the second person walked between the baboons, that baby decided to chase after a piece of fruit as it rolled away.
This quickly turned into a situation where there was an adult baboon on one side of the sidewalk, with its baby on the other, and a human standing in between them. This is about the worst position you can be in with wild animals (barring maybe in the jaws of a lion) - it is the cardinal rule of interacting with wild animals to never get between a mother and her baby.
The baboons reacted fast, what had been a lazy morning instantly turned into a battle. Fangs I had not noticed in the mouths of the baboons were now gleaming as they shrieked. Not only did all six of the adults spring to their feet but out of the trees even more baboons descended. They rounded on the adult human and began to chase them into a corner.
Thankfully, a tour guide nearby thought quickly and opened an umbrella to appear bigger getting between the baboons and their threat, but people started screaming in fear. The monkeys became territorial and started grunting at any other humans present. A park ranger with a slingshot appeared shortly and his presence was enough to break up the party. The baboons retreated off into the trees and no one was hurt in the process.
It is difficult to feel surprised by the uproar. When we passed those same baboons, on a different section of the path, an entirely different tour group (with no idea about what had just happened) was in the monkey’s faces. The visitors were taking pictures with flash as if these were docile domesticated pets and not the wild beasts they are. I would probably grumble too if I had to put up with that every day.
Besides taking in the stunning falls, we also had the chance to experience a cultural dinner during our time here in Zimbabwe. We were picked up and taken to a complex where people showed us the traditional attire of the tribes who lived on this land. Some craftsmen and artists used the natural techniques passed down from their ancestors, and dancers put on a show to help us understand the meaning of different movements. This was all complimented with a dinner of classic food of the Zimbabwe region, which was great for Mr. Wanderer’s List and helping us taste test a full varied spread.
We have loved the time spent here in Zimbabwe, and the firsthand experiences we had together. I am glad that we and everyone around us are safe from the feisty baboons and wish that future tourists give them the space they deserve. It is our time to move on, but we are not traveling too far. Our next nation also shares ownership over Victoria Falls and we crossed the border by walking across a bridge. Any guesses where we are off to next?
